Why Drink the Ordinary?
Specializing in Unique and Hard to Find Wines
It is estimated that Italians use somewhere between 1,000 and 2,000 grapes to make wine. The majority are produced on small family-owned farms and are rarely seen on shelves.
Over 350 different grapes are used to make wine on a commercial scale in Italy. That’s around 10 times the number in France. These wines are grown in nearly every region of the country with the Italian Ministry of Agriculture recognizing 118 IGT and 408 DOC & DOCG wine growing regions
With this kind of diversity, why drink the ordinary?
Amor Fati’s
Interesting and Unique Italian Wines*
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Muristellu has more than 20 different names in the various dialects of the Sardinian language, but is most often labeled Bovale or Muristellu. According to Ian D’Agata, author of Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Muristellu “is an up-and-coming Sardinian variety that an increasing number of producers are taking a long look at as a possible monovarietal wine.” As a result, varietal Muristellu wines are beginning to show up on the international market.
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The name of this variety refers to sheepherders who ate the grapes while accompanying their flocks up and down the valleys of La Marche and Abruzzo. This grape was largely forgotten until 1990 when the first official Pecorino wine was made. For the next ten years there was only one vineyard making the wine on a commercial level. Since then the wine has seen explosive growth in Italy and abroad (but not in the U.S.). One produce increased production from 1,200 bottles in 2000 to over 250,000 in 2011. Pecorino wines are usually delicately herbal with balsamic nuances to the crisp apple and pear aromas and flavors, and they are usually medium bodied.
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An orange wine can be made with any white wine grape that’s left in contact with its skins for any amount of time. The result are eye-catching hues of amber, copper, or apricot. Pinot grigio is a white wine that is often light, crisp, and dry with plenty of zippy, mouth-watering acidity. Exposure to the skins produces a richer wine with hints of almond and peach.
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When you think of great pinot noir, you might think of Burgundy, Sonoma, the Willamette Valley or New Zealand. A Pinot Noir from the Piedmont region of Italy might not come to mind. But pinot noir is known to be very expressive of its terroir, that mysterious combination of soil type, climate, topography, and technique that combine to create a wine that cannot be produced anywhere else in the world. Pinot lovers need to explore wines produced in this beautiful land.
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Refosco Peduncolo is an interesting and delicious wine produced in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, about 60 kilometres northwest of Trieste It was considered a potentially high-quality if little-known variety more than 300 years ago. The wine was referred to as the “master’s wine,” after the wealthy landowners, who had first choice among the wines made by their farmers. It seems that the the nobles had a preference for Refrosco and always picked those wines for themselves.
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Although, local farmers are adamant that Sagrantino grapes have been cultivated in Umbria since the dawn of time, the existence of a wine called sagrantino has been documented “only” since 1598. Initially, Sagrantino was typically made into a sweet, “passito” style wine, wth the dry version receiving DOC (now DOCG) status in 1977. Well made Sagrantino wines offers rich, brambly black fruit and aromatic herb aromas and flavors that are persistent and pure.
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Made from 100% air-dried Vespiolo grapes, Torcolato is one of Italy’s best sweet wines. The grape’s naturally high acidity ensures that Torcolatos are nicely balanced and never overly sweet or cloying. After harvesting, the clusters are bound together with two pieces of twine that are twisted or wound, a method known as torcolare in local dialect. The clusters are then suspended over rafters to dry.
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Turbiana is the grape used to make Lugana wines in the Lake Garda region.. Recently, it was announced that Verdicchio and Turbiana are close relatives but they are genetically distinct vines Turbiana grapes produce fresh white wines with delicate notes.
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Vermentino is an excellent variety from which great wines can be made, and it is of real economic importance for the many families involved in its cultivation and wine production.. The wine was the favorite of Genoa and much sought after in the nineteenth century. Today more than 4,000 hectares of Vermentino are planted in Italy, mostly in Sardinia, Wines offer a large range of aromas and flavors: from citrus to ripe tropical fruit, with floral and herbal notes. Most of the time, the wines have a clean finish with a slight nuance of salinity.
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Vernaccia di San Gimignano is the name of both grape and wine produced in the countryside near San Gimignano in Tuscany, Beloved since the Middle Ages, Vernaccia di San Gimignano was Italy’s first wine to be awarded the DOC appellation nearly fifty years ago. It earned DOCG status in 1993. Both the Vernaccia di San Gimignano grape and wine have a noble history. First mentioned in 1276 in tax documents in San Gimignano’s town archives, Non-riservas are usually made in a modern unoaked, crisp, fruit-driven style, while riserva wines are often beefed with a bit of oak aging.
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A native grape of Veneto, Vespaiola is named after the hungry wasps (vespe) that target its sweet berries. A good Vespaiola brings to mind acacia blossoms, pear, and ripe citrus;. Its principal characteristics are high acid concentration and an extremely delicate floral nose. Vespaiolo is also used locally to make a highly sought after sweet wine called Torcolato.
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Vitovska is a white grape that in Italy is grown only in Friuli Venezia Giulia. It is a once forgotten variety that was brought back from limbo in Italy thanks to the passion and commitment of a handful of dedicated producers. As Ian D’Agata author of Native Grapes of Italy put it: “Vitovska is yet another example of an Italian…native grape and wine success story: producers who believed in the potential quality of this grape have enabled all of us wine-loving individuals to learn about, and indulge, in yet another new and interesting wine.”
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Nestled in the hills of the Piedmont alongside vineyards of Nebbiolo, one of Italy’s most prestigious grapes, grows Albarossa. Loved by locals, the variety was underappreciated on the world stage until recently and was not properly studied until the 1960s. In 2001, Albarossa was recognized as a quality grape of Piedmont and is used in the Monferrato Rosso DOC.
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It’s not uncommon to see a Barbera d’ Alba or a Barbera d’ Asti in the Italian section of your local wine shop. But you’ll have to look pretty hard to find a Barbera from the Monferrato DOC. Although they use the same grape, the wines from Alba, Asti, and Monferrato have their own distinct characteristics. Barbera del Monferrato is is usually a lighter wine than its cousins from Asti and Alba. The Monferrato is typically a fresh red wine which pairs perfectly with light with summer meals.
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Canaiolo Nero is a very ancient Tuscan variety, mentioned in documents dating back to the early fourteenth century. Prior to the sixteenth century, most of the wine made in Chianti was largely Canaiolo Nero and not Sangiovese. A good Canaiolo Nero wine offers a light-to-medium body, and refreshing, lightly tannic experience, with pretty red-berry and delicate floral notes and plenty of saline tang.
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Cannonau – also called Cannonau di Sardegna – is the local name for French Grenache or Spanish Garnacha. Recently, it has been evidenced that the Grenache varietal may have actually originated on Sardinia soil. This is Sardinia’s signature red wine. Grenache is commonly grown in France, Spain, Australia, and California, where it is often used as part of a blend. In this wine, we bring you a 100% varietal from the birthplace of the vine.
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Carignano is a traditional rather than a native grape of Italy, and is planted primarily on the island of Sardinia. Carignano is thought to have originated in Spain. However according to Ian D’Agata, author of Native Wine Grapes of Italy, “Italians can take solace in the knowledge that Italy’s Carignano wines (or a few of them at least) are probably the world’s best…Carignano wines can be one of Italy’s most interesting and sensual offerings, with a velvety-fleshy, almost sweet, and softly tannic personality.“
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What makes our Chardonnay so special, you might ask. The fact that ours is a still version produced in the Piedmont region of Italy makes it pretty unique in the wine world. Itally produces a lot of Chardonnay. Approximately 20,000 ha are planted in the country. But, the vast majority of those grapes are destined for the amazing sparkling wines of Franciacorta. Getting your hands on a still Chardonnay from a quality appellation like the Piedmont is an experience you won’t soon forget.
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Franciacorta, is a land rich in history and extraordinary natural landscapes. It lies in the heart of Italy's northern Lombardy region, on the southern shore of Lake Iseo in the province of Brescia. Franciacorta is home to what many wine connoisseurs are calling Italy’s best sparkling wine. Like Champagne, Franciacorta refers to both the geographical region and the wine itself. It is produced using metodo classico and with the same grape varietals as Champagne.
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Grechetto makes uncomplicated, light-bodied, lemony wines that are easygoing, with hints of white flowers, chamomile, lime, and yellow apples, with generally high acidity. Grechetto grapes are commonly found in the central region of Umbria.
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Groppello is the name that has been used since ancient times to describe grape varieties that have an extremely compact bunch, reminiscent of a closed fist or a knot. Today Groppello Gentile and Groppello di Mocasina are found only in Lombardy, mainly on the western, or Lombard, side of Lake Garda, reaching out eastward toward Brescia.
A well-made Groppello wine will strike you with bright acidity, lively tannins, and intense aromas of red cherry, violet, tobacco, and plenty of spices (marjoram, olive wood, and especially black pepper).
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Malvasia Istriana is a native grape of the Istrian Peninsula near Trieste. In recent years these wines have experienced a bit of a resurgence. According to Ian D’Agata, author of Native Wine Grapes of Italy: “I remain in awe of the extreme makeover these wines have undergone over the last fifteen years: whereas Malvasia Istriana wines of the 1980s were always mineral but neutral, today some can be remarkably aromatic…Nearly always, a good Malvasia Istriana wine will offer aromas and flavors of honeyed peach, apricot, and pear, and mineral overlays of varying intensity. The more aromatic ones have notes of ginger and white pepper.”
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Marzemino is a late-ripening, dark-skinned grape variety grown mainly in Trentino-Alto Adige but also in the Veneto, Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna wine regions of Italy.. Fresh on the palate with bright red fruit and cherry notes, Marzemino can produce refreshing, berry-scented wines.
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Merlot is experiencing a resurgence in Italy. Popular blends known as Super Tuscans often contain Merlot, but 100% varietals are hard to find in the U.S. market. Rarer still are fine roses made from the grape. In the hands of the right vintner, Italian Merlot wines can be wonderful and just as complex as better known Italian reds. Today, top Italian winemakers are embracing this grape and finally giving it its due..
More Traditional Italian Wines
nebbiolo
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Not many bottles get to claim to be “the king of wines,” but Barolo has snagged that prestigious title in the hearts of many.
Sangiovese
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Brunello di Montalcino is always a tremendous experience, and is regarded as one of Italy’s most prestigious red wines. A Brunello must be 100% Sangiovese and be aged a minimum of 4 years. Many are aged much longer before they are released.
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This red wine consists of at least 70% Sangiovese, along with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot and/or Syrah and/or Pinot Nero (0-20%). The minimum aging period is 15 months, of which 7 must be in oak barrels and 3 in the bottle, beginning January 1 of the year after the harvest.
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Montefalco Rosso is a blend, subject to percentage requirements, of Sangiovese and Sagrantino. The D.O.C. requires that Montefalco Rosso be comprised of 60-70% Sangiovese, 10-15% Sagrantino, and the remainder from other red grapes (typically Merlot).
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The Colli Perugini DOC wine zone is located just south of Perugia. It traces the right bank of the Tiber as it threads its way through the hills of central Umbria. A broad range of wines can be made from Italian and French grape varieties.
*Descriptions of these grapes are from: D'Agata, Ian. 2014. Native Wine Grapes of Italy. University of California Press. Kindle Edition.
